Postcard perfect Portofino

Tucked into a serene, secluded inlet one and half hours drive from Milan, Portofino is so picturesque and pretty it could come straight from an Old Master painting. Among its myriad charms, Portofino is also home to Zegna Regatta which celebrated its 25th anniversary last June.

Think Monaco. Shrink it to one-tenth its size, remove the sixties skyscrapers and you have Portofino, acknowledged as one of Italy's prettiest villages. Wielding strict laws, Portofino's authorities have managed to preserve its pristine, postcard-perfect image since 1935.

As a result, Portofino looks like a 19th century retreat with nary an eyesore like fast-food neons and tacky buildings. Only the slew of sea-going yachts give the game away; this is a millionaire's playground and nothing is cheap. Mercifully people-watching is free.

How can it be a backpacker's heaven when the small, itsy-bitsy shops are Ermenegildo Zegna, Cartier, Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Emilio Pucci, Louis Vuitton, the works? The Village Square or Piazza Olivetta (Piazzetta for short), is the most happening place filled with cafes and restaurants, all overlooking the scenic harbour where yachts jostle for pole parking position.

The views are worth far more than the over-priced cappucinno and pasta. If you are not rolling in euros, dine sparingly and go on an enforced diet. Pricey Portofino is the best place to lose some kilos. As compensation, the designer clothes and accessories are 10 to 30% cheaper than Malaysia after you get your VAT back!

Portofino has been luring Europe's royals and jetsetters since the la dolce vita days of Bogart and Bacall, Princess Grace and Rainier, Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton and other famous names. Portofino's snob appeal remains intact even if you have never heard of these octogenarians as you were born in the eighties. Sip your cappuccino long enough and you are bound to recognize some young, hip faces from your generation; Paris Hilton, Justin Timberlake, Wynona Ryder, Alicia Silverstone, Matthew Broderick and Natalie Portman.

THINGS TO DO AND SEE

Being a village, there are no earth-shattering attractions but worthies include Castle Brown, assorted small churches and easy country trekking ideally suited for the rich and un-gymfit. Billionaires prefer to lurk by the pool of Hotel Splendido, one of the best in Italy, plotting their next acquisition as they sip Chianti.

Conveniently located in Piazzetta is a year long photo exhibition 'The Zegna Trophy Portfolio' showcasing the goings-on of the Zegna Regatta for the last 25 years. Even if you are a confirmed landlubber and cannot recognize Dennis Conner from Peter Blake, you can look out for famous celebrities and movie stars who came to pose and party. Entrance is free on top of that.

Five minutes from the harbour is the Church of San Giorgio which contains relics of St George, the one who slayed the dragon and is patron saint of England. Another English link is Castle Brown, an arduous 15 minute hike from Piazzetta, now mostly used for parties and corporate functions. The view from Castello Brown is spectacular as all of pint-sized Portifino lies below in all its splendour. With a name like Castle Brown, of course it had to be owned by an Englishman and so it was, by Sir Montague Yeats Brown, the English Consul of Genoa. His family owned it from 1867 to 1949. In 1961 the Portofino Municipality bought it and today its hanging gardens are justly famous. Portofino's fortune must be attributed to wealthy 19th century English travelers who fell for its spell and the rest of the world was quick to follow.

The scenic route continues for another 15 minutes down to the Lighthouse (Faro) at the very tip of the promontory where you can stare down at the villa owned by Dolce & Gabbana. Unfortunately the only way back is up the same path. But you do pass vineyards, orchards and lovely gardens.

The San Martino Church is historically and archaeologically important. This 12th century building houses the world famous triptych of Saints Rocco, Sebastian and Fabiano, 'The Anunciation' and `St Martin Among the Poor'.

The Fraternity of Assunta (Our Lady of the Assumption) is another important architectural highlight. Its sole claim to fame are the two giant crucifixes, one black and another white, weighing 105 kg and 115 kg which are carried to mark the Feast of St George.

The Portofino headland is one of the most rewarding in the Italian Riviera. Monte di Portofino at 612 m is high enough to be impressive but is not a leg killer.

25TH ANNIVERSARY ZEGNA TROPHY - SPRING REGATTA

Portofino lies just 5 km from Santa Margherita but thanks to the winding, treacherous road, it takes longer to drive than to take the ferry. Once you arrive and survey the multi-million dollar yachts, designer boutiques and swish restaurants, there is nothing much to do except park yourself at one of the cafes and watch a gilded world sail by.

Literally too as the annual Trofeo Zegna Spring Regatta held in May or June is one of the major draws in the social and events calendar. This is when the rich and famous come to race or failing which, show off their new tan and purchasing power, thus fuelling the hotel rates which average RM1,000 for a decent room with seaview. And half that if you can tolerate staring at craggy rocks or what is always referred to as `garden view' though 'vegetable patch' seems more accurate.

Ermenegildo Zegna celebrates its 25th sponsorship of the Portofino Spring Regatta in 2006 though 27 years have passed since Beppe Croce, president of the Italian Yacht Club and Aldo Zegna, then president of the Zegna Group, established the Trofeo Ermenegildo Zegna Cup. Not wishing to clash with the almighty Admiral's Cup, it is only since 1982 that the Zegna Trophy has been held without a break.

The IOR-class boats of the early Regattas seem prehistoric compared to the latest generation Maxi yachts, Swan 45 and Farr 40 but this quantum gap only proves the longevity of the Portofino Regatta," beams Gildo Zegna, co-CEO with his cousin Paolo of Zegna Group. "This sailing tradition continues today as Carlo Croce is now president of the Italian Yacht Club and has taken over from Beppe Croce while Aldo Zegna's position is now held by myself Gildo and Paolo Zegna.

“In 1983, Aldo Zegna and Beppe Croce also established 'A Life For Sailing' trophy, awarded once every two years to those who have dedicated their lives and careers to sailing. Over the years we were able to honour such sailing greats like Admiral Agostino Straulino in 1983 to designer German Frers in 2004. In 1986 it was given unanimously to Beppe Croce himself, a legend in international yachting."

This year, 'A Life for Sailing' Award went to Tom Whidden, CEO of sailmaker North Sails/North Marine Group and co-author of 'The Art & Science of Sails' and 'Championship Tactics'.

“Many think sailing is for the matured sailor but we also wish to encourage young people to take up sailing; so we set up the Beppe Croce Prize in 1987, also sponsored by Ermenegildo Zegna. Given once every two years, it is to individual sailor or crew under 21 years who have obtained success in a class of national interest." The next Beppe Croce Prize will be given in 2007 and last year's winner was handsome young Roman Gabrio Zandona, best known as the 2003 World Champion of the 470 Class.

Originally intended for IOR-class boats, the Zegna Trophy also attracted IMS-class boats and peaked at 150 yachts. "The Zegna Trophy proved so popular it was getting out of hands so we had to impose restrictions now only boats over 55ft are allowed to participate!" says Gildo Zegna.

“I am often asked why Zegna opted to sponsor sailing instead of, for example, motorcar racing or football or even a fashion week. The answer is 'water' as water is the link between Zegna and the sea and relevant only to us. We also consider sailing to be the purest sport as it respects the environment and power of nature as the competitors have to react to wind and weather.”

“In 1910 my grandfather founded Zegna in Trivero, a small town high in the Biella Alps. He was only interested in making the finest fabrics for men's tailoring and fresh, clear, natural water was of paramount importance as it is needed to wash and clean the textiles at various stages of manufacture. The water of Trivero continues to be crystal clear and free from contaminants or minerals which is why our headquarters remains there. Water is part of our heritage and hence Zegna Regatta rather than Zegna Football Trophy!'

Going out into the sea to watch the competition earns another bonus - dolphins! Portofino's original name was Portus Delphini or the Port of Dolphins as recorded by Pliny the Elder who noted the large number of dolphins frolicking in this tranquil bay.